Ireland 2024: Northern Island Tour Part 3

 

Day 5 of the Northern Island Tour

As we traveled along the east coast making our way back to Dublin, we arrived at the largest city in Northern Ireland: Belfast. Just the name sounded ominous to me. 

Where We Went

We had the option to take a Black Cab Tour or visit the Titanic Experience. The outside of the Titanic Experience building looks like a ship, built to imitate the Titanic's size. 

I've been to a couple of Titanic places before and I wanted to see Belfast (not just the shipyard) so I opted for the Black Cab Tour. Because our group was too big for 1 vehicle, the family was in 1 and we were in a gray van. We had 2 guides: 1 Protestant and 1 Catholic. The Protestant talked to us while we were on the Protestant side of the wall while the Catholic spoke on the Catholic side. Both gentlemen did an excellent job of staying neutral during the tour. 

The wall was quite interesting; I didn't realize there was one in Belfast. As an American, the only thing I knew about Belfast was that it was predominantly Protestant as well as a tiny bit about "The Troubles". While I think Giant's Causeway is the jewel of Northern Ireland, I would say Belfast is the scar. There was so much unrest in this city, and I had the feeling that all is not totally fine. In fairness to the city, though, we were only in 1 area and only stayed there long enough for the tour. 

One of the gates on the "Peace Wall". The gates still close at night, but if you're on the wrong side when they close you are still able to get to where you want to go. It takes longer and isn't as convenient, but it can be done.

This sculpture shows how Shankill Road changed from 1920 to 2012. This area gained notoriety during The Troubles.

Mural from STARS (Striving Towards a Restorative Society) to promote peace and unity

Mural dedicated to Stevie "Top Gun" McKeag, who killed at least a dozen Catholics in the 1990's. The mural had a picture of him in the middle of the circle but appears to have been taken off.

Women's Quilt Mural

View from the other side of the street of the Peace Wall

The Peace Wall

The top of the wall has been added on to in order to prevent "things" from being thrown over to the Catholic Side.

The Angel of Thanksgiving, a.k.a. Nuala with the Hula and Beacon of Hope. Myrtle Smyth's idea of bringing a gift of gratitude and hope to the people of Belfast is based on Thanksgiving Square in Dallas. 

On the Catholic side: Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden

Bombay Street was burned in 1969. A Loyalist Mob marched through the area setting houses on fire.

A view of the Peace Wall from Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden

This road dead ends into the Peace Wall

Both of the guides told us that The Troubles wasn't about religion but politics. It just so happens that the Protestants want to be part of the United Kingdom but the Catholics want a united Ireland. Belfast seems to continue to be very divided. It probably didn't help the atmosphere of the city that it was a rainy, dreary day but as I mentioned at the beginning of this post, Belfast was ominous. To this day, July 11th is the night bonfires made from tires and pallets (and apparently furniture) are set to commemorate England's victory over the 1690 Battle of the Boyne when King William III (Protestant) defeated King James II (Catholic). There is also a "Parade Season"; Orange Parades are held in summer months by Protestant groups. No big deal, right? It wouldn't be except that these parades may pass by Catholic areas, increasing tension. I was initially under the impression the parades and bonfires were to commemorate The Troubles instead of tradition dating back to 1690. 

Hillsborough Castle is the residence of the Secretary of State. The Royal Family stays here when in Northern Ireland. This was a nice change of pace after the troubling history of Belfast.

We weren't allowed to take pictures of the inside. We were allowed to visit 6 rooms in the Residence with the last room being the family room where the Royals relax. All of the paintings/pictures were by Irish artists except for one that King Charles painted. The Gardens were stunning. We could just imagine William & Kate's kids running around having the grandest of time!

Strangford is another charming village with colorful houses and a castle. We weren't able to go into the castle because it was closed, but there was a trail nearby. It was definitely hidden but it was quite the find!

"Squeeze Gut" is the starting point of the trail. It's just to the left of the yellow house. It's a very small opening in between 2 buildings.

Just after Squeeze Gut...a bit of a hill to hike up.

Looking back toward Squeeze Gut

Sarah's Well. When Sarah was a child, she fell into the well and drowned (as the story goes).

Llamas!

The side of Sarah's Well

The village was adorable. We took our time, walked around and went into a little shop. 

Portaferry is across the Lough

Where We Stayed

For our last night, we stayed at The Cuan in Strangford. This was the only hotel on this tour where I had pictures of the room and not just the bathroom! I loved this hotel and would definitely stay there again if I ever went back to this part of Ireland.

The hotel had a funky retro feel to it

I loved this little nook! Not that I had time to go in and sit, but I definitely wanted to.

The hallway to the room

Dinner was at the hotel with the group; I had the best fish & chips of the whole trip...but remember I missed getting them in Howth. We kept seeing "Pornstar Martini" on drink lists. Since it was the last night, I went for it. 

It was a fun drink but way too sweet. There is no way I could have had more than one.

Since this day was so emotional and full, I'm going to end this post here. We have one more full day before the tour is over.